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Post by shiggityshwa on Sept 15, 2006 20:42:25 GMT -5
I'm rebuilding my squier strat. It was just an affinity series squier, all stock, black finish. I stripped the a paint and I'm painting it white. I also got a black pickguard for it, but i'm keeping the white knobs and pup covers. Also got a new neck, and ordered GFS vintage pickups, a complete strat rewiring kit, and a new bridge. I'll try to post pictures when I'm done, but before it was just a regular Squier strat with black finish.
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Post by valvetronix on Sept 15, 2006 21:25:15 GMT -5
Sweet, I'll be waiting.
Kinda wana buy a cheap strat and hotrod it lol
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Post by freya on Sept 15, 2006 23:31:11 GMT -5
i'm not a strat player but perhaps you could help me out. i bought a Memphis strat copy at a pawn shop just to steal it's neck for a custom body but now i am more interesting in reviving the damaged guitar. it's just a black stratw th some paint damage, missing a couple knobs, bridge damage, and messed up electrical guts. not sure what to do at all.
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Post by valvetronix on Sept 16, 2006 9:17:59 GMT -5
i'm not a strat player but perhaps you could help me out. i bought a Memphis strat copy at a pawn shop just to steal it's neck for a custom body but now i am more interesting in reviving the damaged guitar. it's just a black stratw th some paint damage, missing a couple knobs, bridge damage, and messed up electrical guts. not sure what to do at all. Well, if your going to paint it... I would suggest getting a heavy grit paper, and give it all a good run over, then use the most acidic paint remover you can find. When everything is completley clean, sand it a bit more with.... 220? and oil it with a small amount of boiled linseed oil, wipe away immedietly, then wait a few days before painting. for the electronics? Theres tons of stuff you can do... Mix and match parts, or get a pre-wired strat pickguard... comes with pups, selector, pot, all wired... You just connect it, and wire it to output jack of your guitar (Which you may way to replace anyways) |
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Post by shiggityshwa on Sept 16, 2006 10:50:07 GMT -5
For electronics:http://store.guitarfetish.com/costupelcoki.html For knobs:http://store.guitarfetish.com/knobs.html For bridge:http://store.guitarfetish.com/tremelos.html www.guitarfetish.com has everything you need for dirt cheap. And as Valve said, you need to go over all the paint with a heavy grit sand paper. After you get the clear coat off you can either use chemical paint remover, or just keep sanding. You're going to want to do final sanding at anywhere from 220-400 (I'm going with 220, then 300, then 400). Then you have to put wood sealer on it (or boiled linseed oil, I've never tried that so I'm not sure if it has the same effect). Then you have to put a few coats of paint on it, and then a bunch of coats of clearcoat lacquer. |
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Post by valvetronix on Sept 16, 2006 15:11:58 GMT -5
For electronics:http://store.guitarfetish.com/costupelcoki.html For knobs:http://store.guitarfetish.com/knobs.html For bridge:http://store.guitarfetish.com/tremelos.html www.guitarfetish.com has everything you need for dirt cheap. And as Valve said, you need to go over all the paint with a heavy grit sand paper. After you get the clear coat off you can either use chemical paint remover, or just keep sanding. You're going to want to do final sanding at anywhere from 220-400 (I'm going with 220, then 300, then 400). Then you have to put wood sealer on it (or boiled linseed oil, I've never tried that so I'm not sure if it has the same effect). Then you have to put a few coats of paint on it, and then a bunch of coats of clearcoat lacquer. I use a sealer also (forgot to mention it), but the acidic pealer sucks all off the oils out of the top layers of wood... Linseed oil will help replinish them, and help the wood to create more. |
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Post by shiggityshwa on Sept 16, 2006 15:17:55 GMT -5
For electronics:http://store.guitarfetish.com/costupelcoki.html For knobs:http://store.guitarfetish.com/knobs.html For bridge:http://store.guitarfetish.com/tremelos.html www.guitarfetish.com has everything you need for dirt cheap. And as Valve said, you need to go over all the paint with a heavy grit sand paper. After you get the clear coat off you can either use chemical paint remover, or just keep sanding. You're going to want to do final sanding at anywhere from 220-400 (I'm going with 220, then 300, then 400). Then you have to put wood sealer on it (or boiled linseed oil, I've never tried that so I'm not sure if it has the same effect). Then you have to put a few coats of paint on it, and then a bunch of coats of clearcoat lacquer. I use a sealer also (forgot to mention it), but the acidic pealer sucks all off the oils out of the top layers of wood... Linseed oil will help replinish them, and help the wood to create more. I haven't used paint stripper, should I still put some linseed oil on it or do you think I can skip that and go right to the wood sealer? |
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Post by valvetronix on Sept 16, 2006 15:44:09 GMT -5
Nope, if you just sanded, you should be fine going straight to sealer.
But, be sure to wet the guitar with water, and sand one last time. The dampness will make the grain stand, and you can get it quite a bit smoother.
Get a damp paper towel and rub the guitar, let it dry for a few seconds then feel it... It is quite a bit rougher becasue the grain stands up. Sand that down, gnat it off and your good to go!
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Post by emixolydian on Sept 16, 2006 16:28:44 GMT -5
Question. I might buy a beater and try to make it look cool. May want to paint it.
Obviously you want to get rid of the old paint, because I doubt you want layers. So sanding is a given. You also mentioned an acidic paint remover, right valve? Do you want a barewood substrate before you paint it? And also, what kind of paint would you be using? I have a feeling a latex exterior or interior paint wouldn't work, probably needs to be a special kind.
Help me!
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Post by valvetronix on Sept 16, 2006 17:53:29 GMT -5
A substrate could be used but isnt really needed. Some oils in substrate can actually discolor your paint.
What kind of paint? For an electric it REALLY isnt that inportant becasue you put a clear coat over it. Or you can go the laquer/paint rout. With something like this Stewmac.coms' ColorTone Liguid Pigment.
Which will mix straight into your lacquer.
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Post by emixolydian on Sept 16, 2006 18:05:22 GMT -5
Weird. I'll post more when I actually get closer to doing it.
Is it worth taking a Squier and just replacing the pickups or is the neck and body construction too shitty to even be worth it?
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Post by valvetronix on Sept 16, 2006 18:18:14 GMT -5
It all depends on the guitar. If you play it, and like the way it feels, and all the set up adjustments work, with a good set of solidly mounted frets, crowned and leveled, then its perfectly fine.
Painting and replacing the pickups wont make a shitty guitar play better though.
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Post by emixolydian on Sept 16, 2006 18:36:52 GMT -5
It all depends on the guitar. If you play it, and like the way it feels, and all the set up adjustments work, with a good set of solidly mounted frets, crowned and leveled, then its perfectly fine. Painting and replacing the pickups wont make a shitty guitar play better though. But it'll make it look better and sound better through an amp  Is it difficult to level and crown your own frets? Is this a typical problem with low-end guitars? |
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Post by valvetronix on Sept 16, 2006 18:50:20 GMT -5
Its not 'that' difficult, but if you only plan on doing it on one or two guitars, it may be cheaper to pay to have it done, becasue of tool costs. And yes, most lower-end guitars will do well witha full fret replacement. But that is alittle bit of overkill for a guitar like a Squier Strat
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Post by freya on Sept 17, 2006 19:29:04 GMT -5
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